Ginger-Curry Grilled Chicken Kebabs

This recipe was included in the “Tuesday Nights” column of Milk Street magazine. Kebabs are a big procedure on a Tuesday night! 😉 Although the time commitment was misleading, the finished dish was absolutely worth all of the work.

We ate the kebabs with brown Basmati rice, warm naan, and Greek Tzatziki. They could alternatively be served with a drizzle of plain yogurt. The kebabs are an adaptation of mishkaki, grilled skewers of marinated meat from the islands of Zanzibar. According to the article, the islands’ cuisine is a fusion of Persian, Portuguese, and Arabic from the people that once colonized or settled in the area.

This recipe was adapted from “Feast: Food of the Islamic World” by Anissa Helou, via Christopher Kimball’s Milk Street magazine, contributed by Courtney Hill. Fabulous.

Yield: Serves 4 to 6

• 2 T grapeseed or other neutral oil (I used canola)
• 2 T tomato paste
• 2 T freshly squeezed lemon juice, plus lemon wedges to serve
• 1 T finely grated fresh ginger
• 5 medium garlic cloves, finely grated or pushed through a garlic press
• 1 T curry powder
• 1 tsp ground turmeric
• 1/4 tsp cayenne pepper
• coarse salt and freshly ground black pepper
• 2 to 2 1/2 pounds boneless, skinless chicken thighs (or breasts), trimmed and cut into 1 1/2-inch chunks (see Note)
• 1 medium red, orange or yellow bell pepper, stemmed, seeded and cut into 1-inch pieces
• 1 small red onion, cut into 1-inch pieces

1. Trim the chicken and cut into 1 1/2-inch chunks.
2. In a large bowl, stir together the oil, tomato paste, lemon juice, ginger, garlic, curry powder, turmeric, cayenne, 1 1/2 teaspoons coarse salt and 1/2 teaspoon black pepper.
3. Add the chicken and mix, rubbing the seasonings into the meat, until evenly coated.
4. Marinate at room temperature for about 30 minutes while you prepare the grill or cover and refrigerate for up to 4 hours. (I marinated it for about 3 hours.)
5. Prepare a charcoal or gas grill. For a charcoal grill, ignite a large chimney of coals, let burn until lightly ashed over, then distribute evenly over the grill bed; open the bottom grill vents. For a gas grill, turn all burners to high. Heat the grill, covered, for 5 to 10 minutes, then clean and oil the grate.
6. While the grill heats, thread the chicken, alternating with the pepper and onion pieces, onto 6 to 9 metal skewers.
7. Place the skewers on the pre-heated grill. Cook without disturbing until lightly charred on the bottom and the meat releases easily from the grill, 3 to 4 minutes.
8. Flip the skewers and cook, turning every few minutes, until charred all over and the chicken is no longer pink when cut into, another 8 to 9 minutes.
9. Transfer to a platter and serve with lemon wedges, as desired.

Note: Don’t worry if the cut pieces of chicken are irregularly shaped. As long as they’re similarly sized, shape isn’t important. Don’t crowd the skewers on the grill grate. Allow some space between them so heat circulates and the chicken cooks quickly and without steaming.

Wali Ya Mboga

In Swahili, wali ya mboga translates to “rice and vegetables.” This upscale version incorporated chicken as well. This dish was similar to a biryani with layered rice with greens, caramelized onions, and yogurt-marinaded chicken in tomato curry sauce. To serve, each serving was also topped with pickled onions, called kachumbar, and salted creamy yogurt. Beyond full-flavored.

I must mention that I really browned my tomato paste during the cooking process. Recently, I have read about the importance of letting tomato paste darken for optimal flavor- apparently, I took this advice to heart! The sauce in my finished dish was much deeper in color than in the original recipe.

The recipe was adapted from Bon Appétit, contributed by Zaynab Issa. I modified the proportions and method. I boiled the rice as instructed in the original recipe but struggled with the method- and wasn’t completely thrilled with the resulting texture. Next time, I would cook the rice using a traditional method or use a much larger pot to boil the rice.

Yield: 6 servings

For the Dish:

• 1 2/3 cups good-quality white basmati rice (such as Shahzada)
• 1/4 cup plain whole-milk yogurt (not Greek) (I used whole milk cream-top plain yogurt)
• one 1″ piece ginger, scrubbed, finely grated (about 1 T)
• 8 large garlic cloves, finely grated or pushed through a garlic press, divided
• 2 3/4 tsp Diamond Crystal or 1 3/4 tsp Morton kosher salt, divided, plus more
• 1/2 tsp ground turmeric, divided
• freshly ground black pepper
• 1 1/2 to 1 3/4 lbs skinless, boneless chicken thighs (about 8 medium)
• 4 T extra-virgin olive oil, divided
• 1 large yellow onion, thinly sliced
• 1 4.5 to 4.6 oz tube double-concentrated tomato paste
• 1 tsp ground coriander
• 1 tsp ground cumin
• 1/2 tsp Kashmiri chile powder or a pinch of cayenne pepper
• 1 bunch Swiss chard, kale, or spinach, tough ribs and stems removed, sliced into 1″ ribbons (I used baby spinach- not cut or stemmed, about 8 cups, packed)

To Serve:

• 1/2 small onion, thinly sliced
• freshly squeezed juice of 1/2 lemon
• 1 green Thai chile or 1/2 large jalapeño, seeds removed if desired, sliced
• 2 T diced cherry, grape or Campari tomatoes
• 1/2 tsp Diamond Crystal or 1/4 tsp Morton kosher salt, divided
• 1/2 cup plain whole-milk yogurt (not Greek) (I used whole milk cream-top plain yogurt)

To Make the Dish:

1. Place rice in a medium bowl and pour in cold water to cover. Agitate rice with your hands until water is cloudy. Drain and repeat until water is almost clear (about 3 times). Pour in water to cover rice by 2″; soak at least 30 minutes and up to 12 hours.
2. Stir yogurt, ginger, half of garlic, 3/4 tsp Diamond Crystal or 1/2 tsp Morton kosher salt, and 1/4 tsp turmeric in a medium bowl to combine. Season with pepper. Add chicken thighs, turning to coat. Let sit at room temperature at least 30 minutes and up to 1 hour.
3. Meanwhile, heat 2 tablespoons of oil in a large nonstick skillet over medium to medium-high. (I used a large enameled cast iron pot.)
4. Add onion and sprinkle with 1/2 tsp Diamond Crystal or 1/4 tsp Morton kosher salt. Cook, stirring occasionally, until onion is frizzled and deeply browned, 10 to 15 minutes. Transfer onion to a plate and set aside.
5. Heat remaining 2 tablespoons of oil in same skillet (still over medium to medium-high).
6. Working in batches if necessary, remove chicken from marinade and cook until browned and cooked through, about 5 minutes on the first side and 4 minutes on the second side. Transfer chicken to a plate, leaving oil behind.
7. Add tomato paste, coriander, cumin, chile powder, remaining half of garlic, remaining 1 1/2 tsp Diamond Crystal or 1 tsp Morton kosher salt, and remaining 1/4 tsp turmeric to skillet. Cook over medium to medium-high, stirring often, until tomato paste turns a shade darker in color, about 5 minutes.
8. Reduce heat to low, stir in 1 cup water, and bring to simmer. Cook, stirring occasionally, until flavors come together and sauce has thickened, 10–12 minutes.
9. Return chicken to pan and stir to coat in sauce. Remove from heat; cover and keep warm. (I placed the pan in a warming drawer.)
10. Drain rice and cook in a very large pot of boiling generously salted water 10 to 15 minutes, until tender. (Alternatively, the rice can be cooked traditionally using a 1:2 ratio with boiling water. Cook, covered, over low heat for 15 minutes.)
11. Stir the Swiss chard, kale or spinach into the rice.
12. Continue to cook until rice is tender and greens are wilted and bright green, about 1 to 3 minutes more.
13. Drain in a colander and let sit 10 minutes to allow moisture to steam off.

To Assemble and To Serve:

1. While the rice rests, combine onion, lemon juice, chiles, tomatoes, and 1/4 tsp Diamond Crystal or 1/8 tsp Morton kosher salt in a small bowl. Toss with a fork to combine, breaking up the onion slices. Let kachumbar sit 5 minutes.
2. Stir yogurt and remaining salt in another small bowl.
3. To serve, fluff rice with a fork, making sure the greens are evenly distributed; transfer to a platter.
4. Scatter reserved caramelized onions over and arrange chicken on top. (Or for a more casual look, return rice to pot and gently stir in chicken and onion.)
5. Serve with kachumbar and salted yogurt alongside.

Eggplant, Tomato, & Chickpea Tagine

Lucky me! My friend gave be several beautiful eggplants from her garden. This flavorful North African vegetarian stew was a perfect way to use them. I served it over whole wheat couscous as well as with warm flatbread to soak up all of the delicious sauce.

The recipe was adapted from 177milkstreet.com. I modified the recipe to prepare it in my stove top pressure cooker. I also increased the amount of garlic, substituted my CSA beefsteak tomatoes for half of the grape tomatoes, and omitted the harissa. We ate it with steamed CSA broccolini on the side. It was healthy and hearty vegetarian feast.

Yield: Serves 6

• 4 T extra-virgin olive oil
• 8 medium to large garlic cloves, roughly chopped
• 1 medium yellow onion, roughly chopped
• 2 cups (1 pint) grape or cherry tomatoes, halved
• 2 large beefsteak tomatoes, cut into 1/2-inch pieces (or substitute an additional 2 cups (1 pint) grape or cherry tomatoes)
• 4 tsp finely grated fresh ginger
• 1 1/2 tsp ground cumin
• 1 tsp sweet paprika
• 1/4 tsp ground cinnamon
• 2 1/2 tsp Kosher salt, plus more
• 1 tsp freshly ground black pepper, plus more
• 2 pounds eggplant, trimmed and cut into 1-inch chunks
• 15 oz can chickpeas, rinsed and drained
• freshly squeezed juice from 1/2 of a lemon, plus lemon wedges to serve, if desired
• 1 cup lightly packed fresh cilantro leaves, finely chopped
• harissa, for serving, optional (as a topping for a little spice)
• whole wheat couscous, for serving (I cooked 1 cup of couscous per the package directions)
• warm flatbread, for serving, optional (I served it with naan)

1. In a stove top pressure cooker (or a 6-quart Instant Pot), sauté the oil and garlic over medium heat, stirring often, until golden brown, about 30 seconds to 1 minute. 
2. Add the onion, tomatoes, ginger, cumin, paprika, cinnamon, 2 1/2 teaspoons coarse salt and 1 teaspoon pepper. Cook, stirring occasionally, until the tomatoes begin to release some of their juices, 2 to 4 minutes.
3. Stir in 1/4 cup water, scraping up any browned bits. Gently stir in the eggplant, then distribute in an even layer.
4. Lock the lid of the pressure cooker (or Instant Pot) in place. Over medium heat, bring to low pressure (first line on a stove top pressure cooker). Cook for 3 minutes.
5. Meanwhile, cook the couscous. Set aside.
6. When pressure cooking is complete, quick-release the steam by moving the pressure valve to vent. Carefully open the pot.
7. Gently stir in the chickpeas and lemon juice, then taste and season with salt and pepper.
8. Stir in the cilantro.
9. Serve over couscous garnished with additional cilantro, drizzled with additional oil (I omitted it) and with warm flatbread and lemon wedges on the side, as desired.

Ethiopian Chickpea Stew (Shiro Wat) & Stewed Collard Greens (Gomen Wat)

My sister introduced me to Ethiopian food many moons ago. Ever since, we have really enjoyed eating at Ethiopian restaurants but I have never prepared any dishes at home. After receiving collard greens and parsley in my CSA share, this seemed like a fitting menu to try. It could be served any time of year. For us, it was a perfect meal to serve on a rainy and cool June evening.

I loved the brightness that the grated ginger, lemon, and chopped fresh chile added to the tender, stewed collard greens after cooking. The chickpea stew recipe utilizes the genius technique of incorporating ground red lentils to thicken the base.

The recipes were adapted from 177milkstreet.com. I changed the proportions and decreased the heat intensity. I served it over rice with dollops of whole milk Greek yogurt to offset the spice. I also omitted the fresh chile garnish in the chickpea stew. In a restaurant, these dishes would be served with injera, Ethiopian flatbread.

Yield: Serves 4

For the Stewed Collard Greens (Gomen Wat):

• 1 1/2 T ghee
• 1/2 medium yellow onion, halved and thinly sliced
• coarse salt and freshly ground black pepper
• 4 large garlic cloves, minced
• 1 1/2 T minced fresh ginger, divided
• scant 1/2 tsp freshly ground cardamom
• 1/4 tsp ground turmeric
• 1/2 pound stemmed collard greens, cut into 1/2-inch ribbons and roughly chopped
• 3/4 to 1 cup chicken, vegetable or beef stock, divided
• 1/2 to 1 Fresno or serrano chile, stemmed, seeded, and thinly sliced
• 1/2 T freshly squeezed lemon juice

For the Berbere Spice Blend: (you will have a little extra)

• 1 T smoked sweet paprika
• 1 1 /2 tsp sweet paprika
• 1/4 to 1/2 tsp cayenne pepper
• 1/2 tsp ground ginger
• 1/2 tsp onion powder
• 1/2 tsp ground coriander
• scant 1/2 tsp garlic powder
• heaping 1/4 tsp freshly ground cardamom
• 1/4 tsp dried basil, ground or crushed into a powder
• 1/8 tsp ground cumin

For the Chickpea Stew (Shiro Wat):

• 2 T red lentils
• 3 T ghee
• 1 medium yellow onion, chopped
• 2 cups (1 pint) cherry or grape tomatoes, halved
• 8 to 10 medium garlic cloves, minced
• 2 T minced or grated fresh ginger
• 2 T Berbere Spice Blend (above)
• 2 15.5-oz cans chickpeas, rinsed and drained
• coarse salt and freshly ground black pepper
• 1 cup lightly packed fresh flat-leaf parsley, chopped
• 1 jalapeño or Fresno chile, stemmed and chopped, optional (I omitted it)
• cooked rice, for serving, optional (I served both dishes over white Basmati rice)
• whole milk Greek yogurt, for serving, optional
• injera (flatbread), for serving, optional

To Make the Stewed Collard Greens:

1. In a large pot over medium, melt the ghee. (I used an enameled cast iron Dutch oven.)
2. Add the onion and cook, stirring occasionally, until lightly browned, 5 to 10 minutes. 
3. Stir in the garlic, 1 tablespoon of grated ginger, the cardamom and turmeric. Cook, stirring occasionally, until fragrant and lightly toasted, about 1 minute.
4. Add about half of the collards and cook, stirring, until slightly wilted, then add the remaining collards.
5. Stir the stock and 1/4 teaspoon pepper. Cover and cook, stirring occasionally, until the collards are tender, 20 to 30 minutes. (I cooked it for 30 minutes.)
6. Off heat, stir in the chopped chile, lemon juice and remaining 1/2 tablespoon ginger.
7. Taste and season with salt and pepper, then transfer to a serving dish.

To Make the Spice Blend:

1. In a small bowl or jar, stir or shake together all ingredients until combined. The berbere will keep in an airtight container in a cool, dry spot for up to 2 months. (I used a recycled glass spice jar.)

To Make the Chickpea Stew:

1. In a spice grinder, pulse the lentils until finely ground, about 10 pulses; set aside.
2. In a large saucepan over medium, melt the ghee. (I used a low and wide enameled cast iron pot.)
3. Add the onion and cook, stirring occasionally, until golden brown, 8 to 10 minutes.
4. Stir in the tomatoes, garlic, ginger and berbere. Cook, stirring occasionally, until the tomatoes have given up their liquid and the mixture is beginning to brown, 3 to 5 minutes.
5. Add the chickpeas, ground lentils, 2 cups water and ½ teaspoon each salt and pepper. Boil over medium-high, then reduce to medium and cook at a simmer, uncovered and stirring often, until the sauce clings to the chickpeas and the desired thickness and consistency is achieved, about 15 to 20 minutes. (If serving over rice, cook the rice at this time.)
6. Off heat, stir in the parsley and chili (if using).
7. Taste and season with salt and pepper.
8. Serve the stewed collard greens and chickpea stew with injera or over rice topped with a dollop of yogurt, as desired.

Kuku Paka (Chicken & Coconut Curry)

I was happy that the weather cooled down a little bit so that I could sneak this dinner into our springtime menu. The sauce was beyond creamy and delicious. Typically, this dish is prepared with charcoal-grilled chicken; I loved that this recipe was adapted to make using the broiler instead- perfect in cooler weather.

This recipe was adapted from Let’s Eat by Zaynab Issa, via Bon Appétit. It is a wonderful version of this popular East African-Indian chicken curry. It gave my son, who is studying World History in high school, a moment to review the impact and influences of the Indian Ocean trade routes prior to 1450 with our family. 😉 In Swahili, the trade language formed across the Indian Ocean, Kuku means chicken and Paka means to smear, to spread, or to apply.

The original recipe recommends using boneless thighs but notes that any cut of chicken, or a mix of breasts, tenders, or drumsticks (with pieces of similar size), could be substituted. A mix of vegetables can also be used in lieu of chicken to create a vegetarian version. I served it over rice with steamed spinach. Fast and fabulous.

Yield: 4 to 6 Servings

• 3 to 6 garlic cloves
• 2 lemons, divided (one for marinade & one for serving)
• 1 1/4 tsp Morton kosher salt, divided, plus more (or 2 1/2 tsp Diamond Crystal kosher salt)
• 1/4 tsp smoked paprika or Kashmiri chile powder
• one pinch or dash of cayenne pepper (omit if using Kashmiri chile powder)
• 2–3 lbs skinless, boneless chicken thighs (about 8 to 10 large)
• 1 medium yellow onion
• 1 plum tomato
• 1 medium jalapeño or 1–2 green Thai chiles, seeded and ribbed
• 1/4 cup (packed) cilantro leaves with tender stems, plus more for serving
• 2 T extra-virgin olive oil
• 1/4 tsp ground coriander
• 1/4 tsp ground cumin
• 1/8 tsp ground turmeric
• 1 can (13.5 oz) unsweetened coconut milk
• 4 T (1/4 cup) heavy cream (can substitute nondairy milk or additional coconut milk)
• Basmati rice and/or crusty bread, for serving

1. Finely grate the garlic cloves into a large bowl with a Microplane; alternatively, a garlic press can be used.
2. Cut 1 lemon in half and squeeze juice into the bowl; discard seeds.
3. Mix in 1/2 tsp Morton kosher salt (or 1 tsp Diamond Crystal) and the smoked paprika and cayenne pepper (or Kashmiri Chile powder).
4. Add the skinless, boneless chicken thighs (I used 10) and toss to evenly coat.
5. Cover bowl and let sit at room temperature 30 minutes. Meanwhile, make the curry base.
6. Coarsely chop the onion, tomato, chile(s) (depending on how spicy your chiles are and your heat tolerance), and cilantro. Transfer to a blender or food processor and blend or process until smooth. (I used a Vitamix.)
7. Place an oven rack in the highest position. Heat the broiler. (I set my oven to Broiler+Max at 500 degrees.)
8. Heat the extra-virgin olive oil in a high-sided skillet or large pot over medium. (I used a large, low, and wide enameled cast iron pan.)
9. Add ground coriander, ground cumin, and ground turmeric. Cook, stirring, until fragrant, about 1 minute.
10. Pour in purée and add 3/4 tsp Morton kosher salt (or 1 1/2 tsp Diamond Crystal). Stir to combine and cook, stirring occasionally, until raw onion smell subsides and curry is paste-like in consistency, 15–20 minutes.
11. Arrange chicken on a foil-lined, rimmed baking sheet and broil until cooked through, charred in spots, and a thermometer inserted into the thickest parts registers 165°, 14 to 20 minutes. (I placed the chicken “skin side down” for 7 minutes, flipped each piece over and cooked an additional 7 minutes.)
12. While the chicken is cooking, shake the can unsweetened coconut milk to ensure coconut cream is incorporated, then add coconut milk to curry and stir well to combine. Curry should be pale yellow. Bring to a gentle simmer and cook until warm and slightly thickened, 5–10 minutes.
13. Once chicken is finished, add chicken and all of the pan juices to the curry and reduce heat to low; mix well to combine. Stirring constantly to prevent curry from breaking, dribble in the heavy cream.
14. Taste and season with more salt, if needed.
15. Serve the chicken and sauce over Basmati rice garnished with additional cilantro.
16. Cut remaining 1 lemon into wedges. Serve kuku paka with crusty bread and lemon wedges for squeezing over at the table, as desired.

Tunisian Chickpea Soup (Lablabi)

I am a big fan of toppings, so this creamy, earthy, and hearty vegetarian soup caught my eye. It is served over toasted chunks of bread and then garnished with crunchy, spiced chickpeas, lemon zest, parsley, a sprinkle of cumin, and a drizzle of olive oil. I also loved that the soup incorporated a little spice from harissa.

This recipe was adapted from Cool Beans by Joe Yonan, via The New York Times, contributed by Melissa Clark. I used a stove top pressure cooker to cook the beans which significantly expedited the cooking process. I also served the soup over toasted sourdough boule chunks in lieu of rustic bread. Great.

Yield: Serves 4 to 6

For the Crispy Chickpeas:

• 1 3/4 cup cooked chickpeas, or 1 (15-ounce) can chickpeas, drained and rinsed
• 2 teaspoons extra-virgin olive oil
• 1/2 teaspoon kosher salt, plus more to taste
• 1 teaspoon za’atar, plus more to taste

For the Soup:

• 1 1/2 cups dried chickpeas, soaked overnight and drained
• 1/4 cup plus 3 tablespoons extra-virgin olive oil, plus more for serving
• 2 bay leaves
• 1 1/2 teaspoon kosher salt, plus more to taste
• 1/2 loaf hearty rustic bread (about 6 to 8 ounces)(I used 1/2 of a sourdough boule)
• 1 cup chopped onion, from 1 medium onion
• 6 to 8 large garlic cloves, minced or finely grated
• 1 tablespoon ground cumin, plus more for serving
• 1 tablespoon tomato paste
• 1 tablespoon harissa paste, plus more for serving
• freshly squeezed lemon juice from 1 large lemon (about 3 T)
• finely grated zest of 1 large lemon (about 1 T), for serving
• 1/2 cup chopped flat-leaf parsley, for serving

To Prepare the Crispy Chickpeas:

1. Transfer the rinsed and drained canned chickpeas to a rimmed baking sheet lined with a clean dish towel or paper towels.
2. Cover with another towel (or paper towels) on top, rubbing gently to dry.
3. Remove top towel and let air-dry for at least 30 minutes and preferably 1 hour. (I let them dry for 2+ hours.)

To Prepare the Soup:

1. In a pressure cooker (I used a stove-top pressure cooker), combine soaked chickpeas, 5 cups water, 1 tablespoon olive oil, bay leaves and 1/2 teaspoon salt over high heat. (Alternatively, use a Dutch oven or heavy stockpot.)
2. Place the pot over high heat, until the pressure cooker reaches the second ring (high). Adjust the heat to maintain the pressure for 35 minutes. (If using a stockpot, bring to a boil for 2 to 3 minutes, then reduce heat to a simmer, cover and cook until chickpeas are tender, about 1 to 2 hours.)
3. Remove from the heat and let the pressure release naturally.
4. Heat oven to 400 degrees. (I set my oven to convection roast.)
5. While chickpeas are cooking, cut bread into thick slices, then tear or cut slices into bite-size pieces.
6. Place bread in one layer on large rimmed baking sheet and toast until crisp and light brown, about 10 minutes. Let cool on pan and set aside.
7. Finish the crunchy chickpeas: Raise oven temperature to 425 degrees. (I set my oven to convection roast.)
8. Remove the towels from baking sheet with the chickpeas, and toss the chickpeas with 2 teaspoons olive oil, 1/2 teaspoon salt and za’atar until well coated.
9. Roast until golden and crispy, about 13 to 18 minutes, tossing halfway through. When chickpeas are still hot, sprinkle lightly with more salt. Taste and add more salt or za’atar, or both, as desired.
10. When the chickpeas for the soup are tender, discard bay leaves.
11. Using a slotted spoon, transfer 2 cups of chickpeas, 1/2 cup of chickpea cooking liquid and 1/4 cup olive oil to a blender or food processor, and purée until smooth. (I used a Vitamix.)
12. In a large skillet over medium-high, heat the remaining 2 tablespoons of oil until shimmering.
13. Add the onion and cook, stirring occasionally, until softened, about 5 minutes.
14. Add garlic and cook until golden, about 2 minutes.
15. Add the remaining 1 teaspoon salt, 1 tablespoon cumin and tomato paste and cook, stirring, until fragrant, 1 minute. Add a splash of the chickpea cooking liquid to the pan, and bring to a simmer to deglaze, scraping up the browned bits on the bottom of the pan. Turn off heat.
16. Add chickpea purée and onion mixture to soup, along with harissa and lemon juice, and stir well. Add a little water if soup seems too thick, and more salt, if needed.
17. To serve, divide toasted bread pieces among soup bowls, then ladle in soup.
18. Garnish with lemon zest, parsley, olive oil, more cumin and some of the crispy chickpeas — you’ll have leftovers. Serve hot, with more harissa on the side, as desired.

North African Bean Stew with Winter Squash

This is a healthy and hearty vegetarian stew. We ate it over brown Basmati rice with steamed spinach on the side. I loved that it was loaded with warm spices.

The recipe was adapted from Brooklyn’s Kos Kaffe via The New York Times, contributed by Melissa Clark. I used farro instead of barley, used canned beans, and increased the amount of garlic. I also reduced the amount water to achieve a thicker consistency. Nice.

Yield: Serves 8 to 10

For the Baharat Spice Blend:

• 1 T sweet paprika
• 1/2 T ground coriander
• 1/2 T ground cumin
• 1/2 T ground turmeric
• 1 tsp freshly ground black pepper
• 1/2 tsp freshly grated nutmeg
• 1/2 tsp freshly ground cardamom
• 1/2 tsp ground allspice

For the Stew:

• 5 T extra-virgin olive oil, more for serving
• 2 leeks, white and green parts, diced
• 1 bunch cilantro, leaves and stems separated
• 1 cup finely diced fennel, fronds reserved (1 medium or 1/2 large fennel bulb)
• 4 large garlic cloves, finely chopped
• 2 1/2 tablespoons baharat spice blend
• 1 small (or 1/2 large) cinnamon stick
• 2 tablespoons tomato paste
• 2 quarts chicken or vegetable stock
• 1/2 cup pearled barley or farro (I used Trader Joe’s 10 minute farro)
• 2 1/2 teaspoons kosher salt, more as needed
•  large pinch saffron, crumbled
• 4 cups cooked beans or chickpeas (I used 2 15-oz cans of chickpeas, drained and rinsed)
• 2 cups peeled and diced butternut squash (1/2 large or 1 small squash)
• 3/4 cup peeled and diced turnip (1 medium)
• 1/2 cup red lentils
• plain yogurt, for serving (I used Greek yogurt)
• aleppo pepper or hot paprika, for serving
• brown Basmati rice, for serving, optional

1. Make the baharat spice blend. Set aside.
2. Cut leeks in half, slice into half moons, and soak in a bowl of water. Drain and finely chop in a food processor.
3. In a large pot over medium heat, heat oil and cook leeks until they begin to brown, 10 to 12 minutes. (I used a large enameled cast iron Dutch oven.)
4. While the leeks cook, finely chop the cilantro stems, fennel and garlic in a food processor.
5. Stir the cilantro stems into the pot, along with diced fennel and garlic. Cook for 2 minutes.
6. Stir in baharat, cinnamon and tomato paste, and cook until paste begins to caramelize, about 2 minutes.
7. Stir in broth, 1 cup water (water can be omitted for a thicker consistency), the barley/farro, and the salt. Bring to a gentle boil, stir in saffron, if using, and reduce heat to medium. (The original recipe uses 3 cups of water- increase for a more soup-like consistency, as desired.)
8. Simmer uncovered for 40 minutes. (I simmered the stew for 20 minutes because I used par-cooked farro.)
9. Stir in beans, squash, turnip and lentils; cook until barley/farro and vegetables are tender, about another 30 minutes.
10. Taste and adjust seasonings, if desired. Remove cinnamon stick.
11. Ladle stew into bowls. (I served it over rice.)
12. Spoon a dollop of yogurt on top and drizzle with olive oil. Garnish with cilantro leaves, fennel fronds and Aleppo pepper or paprika, as desired.